From the outside in: Río Dulce, Guatemala

Foto: Helena Prentis

By: Helena Prentis

From hostels on the river you can kayak to the Old Castillo San Felipe and learn about the Spanish conquest of the area and the eventual downfall of what was a Spanish stronghold hundreds of years ago. From the ramparts you can look out onto the enormous Lake Isabel which is filled with all sorts of birds such as pelicans and cranes, the lucky traveler might even see a turtle or a manatee may pop up in the water. Even if you’re unlucky and don’t get a glimpse at any animals, the immense biodiversity of the place can be appreciated only through listening- the noise of the birds is incredible, especially at sunset when they all nestle around the castle, almost as if they too want to enjoy the sublime sunset which occurs nightly over the lake.

A popular attraction of the river are the waterfalls at Finca Paraíso, which is referred to as a town but in reality is made up of the falls and some restaurants serving cheap food for hungry travellers. These waterfalls are a true bargain for any keen spa-goer. You can take the short walk following the trickling stream up to where boiling hot boiling cascades down into natural pool, just at bath temperature. Follow the stream to its source and you can coat yourself with the natural clay that forms there and is said to clean and exfoliate the skin.

Some argue that Río Dulce is nothing compared to the better trodden backpacker route of Flores and Tikal, I however would say that this lush maze of mangroves is undoubtedly on the rise amongst visitors who are keen to step away from the more touristy sites in Guatemala and are willing to try something different. For me, I could not recommend this paradise any more.